Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Around about Downtown Manhattan

Hey all, back again with an update from the last couple of days.

Unfortunately, flickr connection is still borked, so still no photos :(

So, I've spent a good part of the  last couple days hanging out with fellow Australians Alice and Bonnie, and I've greatly enjoyed having awesome people to chat to and see things with (not to mention having someone to take pictures of me in front of New York skylines - very important, that.)

Yesterday, after a bit of stupidity on my part (left my mobile at my hostel, had to return to Brooklyn to get it in order to arrange to meet), we caught up at Battery Park, at the Southern tip of Manhattan Island.  After taking in the excellent view of the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, we walked up through downtown, past Wall St and the New York Stock Exchange, to the City Hall and Civic Centre. We then braved the crowds to walk over the Brooklyn Bridge, a spectacular structure, built in 1875, with an equally special view of both Downtown and Midtown Manhattan. After a stop for lunch on the Brooklyn side, we paid a visit to the incredibly picturesque Central Park, which is especially spectacular at its Southern end, with skyscrapers as a backdrop to the pond and landscaped beauty of the place. After a visit to the Apple Cube (Which I think I mentioned a few days ago) and FAO Schwartz, plus a walk through the bright, flashing landscape of Times Square, the girls were ready to call it a day. Before I headed back to Brooklyn for the night, I took the oppurtunity to do a bit of exploring in Midtown, and some night photography - if Flickr was working, this would be the point where I posted an amazing shot of the East River and Queensboro bridge which I stumbled upon in my walkings. Instead, you'll just have to imagine it, and take my word that the view was -amazing-.

Today, my morning was taken up with more mundane tasks - specifically, laundry - which I hadn't done since I left San Francisco. That out of the way, I headed into Manhattan, taking a long walk in the low-rise neighbourhoods between between Midtown and Downtown. Starting in Chinatown, I visited Little Italy, Noho, Soho, Chelsea, the West Village, Greenwich Village, and probably some other neighbourhoods that I didn't even know were there. Later in the afternoon I met up again wit Alice and Bonnie, who had spent the day at museums which I'd already hit up. We endured the long lines at Magnolia Cupcakes (Made famous, I'm informed, on Sex and the City), but the resulting sweets were well worth the wait - I mean, I don't use the term 'best cupcakes ever', but damn, these were really good cupcakes :P.

After another early night on the part of my travelling companions, I again took a night-time wander in this wonderful city. Taking the Subway South to 34th street, I paid a visit to the base of the Empire State Building (line was too long to consider going up), then moved on to 'the biggest store in the world', Macy's New York. Certainly, this is an enourmous store, and it has a lot of old-school charm. Of particular note were the wooden escalators throughout the uooer floors - I've never seen escalators that old before, and I suppose that through a combination of nostalgia and inertia (if it ain't broke...), they're still there in Macy's, running just as well as you'd expect an escalator to run.

After a wander through Macy's I realised that I hadn't, during this visit, been to see the famous flatiron building. Anyway, I felt like a walk, so I schlepped down Broadway, took in the flatiron by night, then continued down to my subway stop at 14th St.

Well, that's all from me for the time being. Big plans for tomorrow - it looks like it might snow in the morning, we've got a visit to the Rockerfeller Centre Observation Deck lined up, and, of course, New Year's Eve in Times Square.

Might not get back to the blog for a couple days, and New Year's Day has me taking the train to Boston, MA, where I'll be staying for a few days.

'til then!

Jono

Sunday, December 28, 2008

More New York

Hey again, just wanted to drop back in and say hello, and get y'all updated on goings-on over the last couple of days.

Unfortunately, no photos today - having some flickr-issues at the moment, and my uploads aren't going through.

So, yesterday, I got up earlyish and made my way out to Coney Island. Site of the original Luna Park, Coney Island was a popular beachside resort and day-trip destination for New Yorkers in the early 20th century. On a downnhill slide since after the 2nd world-war, most of the original theme parks and fairgrounds were long ago replaced my moderate-income and public housing. A few places survived along the waterfront, but last summer's closure of Astroland Park effectively spells the end of the area as an amusement park destination (there is, of course, still a beach, and the New York Aquarium is here).

So, I went out here mostly out of curiosity, to get a look at the retro-decay and degeneration. The parks that are still open always shut down for the winter anyway, but on a foggy day like Saturday, the whole place looks almost ghostly - appropriately enough, like it might just fade away into the mist. It's kinda sad, of course, to see a such a significant place slowly melting away, but there's little to be done if people don't want to visit anymore.

Another famous Coney Island sight is Nathan's famous hot of stand. Established in 1915, Nathan holds an annual hot dog eating contest - you know the one, on the news every year, with the little Japanese guy absolutely dominating a whole bunch of huge American dudes. Well, I paid a visit to Nathan's and tried one of their famous hot dogs. The verdict? Not bad, but I couldn't eat 63 in 10 minutes :P

So, the original plan for yesterday afternoon as to meet up with a friend of a friend, Alice, who's on her own epic international trip, and is here in New York for New Years. Unfortunately, true to form, American Airlines failed abjectly, and left the poor girl sitting in San Francisco Airport for 9-odd hours. At any rate, my Saturday evening was more pleasant than being stuck in transit all day, and I spent some time exploring midtown Manhattan at night - rather spectacular when the fog is as low as it was yesterday evening, shrouding tall buildings and reflecting city lights.

By this morning, Alice had made it to New York, so we met up for Breakfast on the Upper Weest Side. After breakfast, we hit up the Natural History Museum, which was a strange experience indeed. To me, the Museum of Natural History is something of a meta-museum - a museum of what museums were like in the early-mid 20th century. eschewing the interactive, interpretive exhibit of many more modern museums (think of the Melbourne Museum, for example), the museum of natural history is old school. Like, stuffed animals, dioramas, human skeletons and exhibits called 'The African People' and 'The Asian People'. This really is a retro-experience - even an exhibit on the new-fangled concept of 'biodiversity' can't resist such charming inclusions as a stuffed Panda and a Dodo skeleton. Hardly a great contribution to biodiversity there. The natural history museum, incidentally, is the setting for that Ben Stiller movie, Night at the Museum.

Next stop was on the other side of the park, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. In addition to the largest museum store I've ever seen (they sell rugs, for goodness sake), they've got a huge building, housing an enourmous collection spanning the whole gamut from ancient pottery through Roman and Greek, Renaissance, Impressionist and Contemporary Art (including the only Damien Hirst I've ever seen - the piece where he suspended a whole shark in a tank of formaldehyde (kinda reminded me of the Natural History Museum :P). After spending a couple of hours wandering through that particularly impressive collection, we took a subway South and paid a brief visit to Roosevelt Island (which I wrote about a couple of days ago) right around sunset. I'll tell you what - if that place is spectacular by day, it's even more amazing with all the lights going. Quite a sight indeed.

A quick visit to Times Square for dinner rounded off a fun and productive day - Alice's travelling companion arrives tomorrow morning (again, scheduled to arrive this evening, but not to be), and I think we'll be hitting up the bottom part of Manhattan Island - Bryant Park, the Empire State Building, Battery Park etc.

'til next time!

Jono

Friday, December 26, 2008

Christmas in New York

While it was always going to be hard being away from home on Christmas day, if you're gonna be anywhere at such a time, it might as well be New York. So what did I get up to on Christmas? Well, after a bit of sleep-in, I took a walk along the East River, on the East Side of Manhattan. A pathway, of varying quality, runs all the way along the edge of the island from where I joined it, around 6th street, all the way up to 40somethingth street. One of my favourite things about this city (or any city, really), is that is has so many different faces and aspects - depending on where you see it from, there's an infinite number of beautiful views to be had - plus, in New York, you can look across the river and see Brooklyn, an impressive city in and of itself.

Diverting from the shoreline, I made my way into the North end of midtown, past the Citicorp centre (the giant, slope-roofed one in the skyline shot above), and found a couple of stores that were open on Christmas afternoon - one was that Apple store (Which is housed in a bunker underneath a hyper-futuristic glass cube, and literally never closes (24 hours a day, 365 days a year)). The other was even better then - the world's most famous toy store, FAO Schwartz was open, so I took the time to go in, have a wander around and see the famous giant keyboard (As famously seen in the Tom Hanks movie Big).

After a giant pretzel from one of the ubiquitous street-cart vendors (possibly my favourite New York photo so far, btw), I took a quick stroll through the southernmost part of Central Park. Despite the warmer weather, the surface of the lake was still frozen. It's a beautiful place, Central Park, and plays so well off of its uber-urban surroundings.

Heading back downtown, I came to Times Square, which is just as crazy a place as you might imagine - they reckon that half a million people pass through there in a day, which explains the cacophany of flashing lights, huge video screens and 10-storey billboards. It's like Las Vegas compressed into three blocks. Or maybe Las Vegas is Times Square spread out over a whole city - either way, with that number of computers and video screens in all packed into one place, something is bound to malfunction eventually :P

So it seems that Christmas Day is big movie release day today, so my plans to go See Gran Torino were disturbed by a sold out session. My alternative, while not exactly festive, turned out to be one of the best movies I've seen all year - Doubt, with Meryl Streep and Phillip Seymour Hoffman is pretty dark, but really excellent.

My Christmas Day was topped off by a nice meal at a restaurant nearby (including a very classy hamburger, and a ridiculously indulgent desert - espresso ice-cream, punctuated by chunks of brownie, topped with whipped cream and bookended by caramel-coated peanuts - yum!), then back to the hostel for an early night's sleep.

Today, I spent some time indulging some of my geekier habits. A morning visit to an awesome used video-game store was fun, followed by a trip to Battery Park City in Lower Manhattan to visit the Skyscraper Museum - student entry cost me two bucks fifty, and I spent almost an hour and a half in their one gallery - an exhibit about Hong Kong and New York kept me occupied for that long - what a bargain! Although I must admit that some of that hour and a half was spent in the museum store, wishing I could afford a 3200 piece skyscraper modelling kit :P. I rounded out the day with a trip to the P.S.1 contemporary art centre (my MOMA ticket got me in for free - it really was a thrifty day!). P.S.1 is really interesting, actually - it's a real, 29th century school building which has been retooled into a gallery - some of the spaces feel like ordinary galleries, but others are woven into the building - including one 'gallery' which is actually the old boiler-room, with furnace intact (but sadly inoperative :P).

All in all, then, a good couple of days - I'm still loving experiencing and exploring this city, and its many, many faces.

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

The streets of Manhattan

Bugger.

Well, somehow I appear to have just lost a whole bunch of writing I just did for this thing, so the following is a spark notes version of my last couple of days in New York City.

On Tuesday, I walked downtown, and did my architecture-geek thing, peering up at all the famous (and just plain impressive) buildings at the bottom end of Manhattan Island.

Plus, the view from down there, of New Jersey, Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty are mighty impressive.

Next, I headed back uptown to Roosevelt Island, in the middle of the East River. The two notable attributes of Roosevelt Island: #1 - The Aerial Tramway which serves the island.

#2 - the views. Which are incredible - from Roosevelt Island, the Upper East Side of Manhattan looks like a man-made mountain of concrete and glass and steel. Just stunning.

A return to the bigger island by subway took me to the Rockerfeller Centre, which is perfect at this time of year for a festive fix - ice skating, bright lights, a giant christmas tree and thousands of people all in the one place.

Additionally, I'd like to throw out that the main building (used to be called the RCA building, now it's the GE building) of the Rockerfeller Centre (which stretches over several blocks of Midtown Manhattan) is quite possibly my favourite skyscraper full stop. Which (for me at least), is a big call :P. But I really love it - it's tall, and long, and oriented such that, from the North or South, it takes up a whole block, whereas from the East or West it's so narrow you hrdly see it at all - it's like a sleek, beautiful, art-deco, 270-odd metre tall stone cliff face - like something that would be eroded out of a mountain, rather than being built. Just wonderful.

Anyway, after all that excitement, today(Christmas Eve) was a somewhat more subdued day. I went out to the Museum of Modern Art in the morning, and boy, was it ever busy! I got there 20-odd minutes before it opened, but the line for tickets already stretched out the door. There must've been 1000 plus people in the museum at any one time - place was packed. They've got a great collection, though. I'm no art-expert, but it's great to see some of the uber-famous pieces, like Van Gogh's Starry Night, and Warhol's Soup Can paintings. 

This afternoon, I took a wander through the Greenwich Village neighbourhood, which is charming, but terribly confusing - because it predates the regular street grid (parallel numbered streets running East-West, parallel numbered avenues running North-South) you find further up the island, you get wierd things happening - I gave up trying to navigate when 4th street intersected with 10th street -_-.

So, those were my eventful couple of days - I'm still having a blast over here, and learning more abou the city every day. Tomorrow's Christmas Day, and my plans include a sleep-in (so much walking the last couple of days!), a movie in the evening, then a nice meal.

A merry Christmas to y'all, hope it's a good one!

'til next time.

Jono

Monday, December 22, 2008

Live from New York!

Hy all, I'm coming to ya tonight direct from Brooklyn, New York - and starting to remember just why I liked this city so much the first time around.

So, after spending a bit of time over the weekend taking in a last bit of San Francisco, I packed up my stuff from the frat and headed out to SFO airport.

I had an overnight flight, leaving San Francisco at quarter to eight at night and reaching JFK airport in New York at about 7:30 the next morning. In the end, due to various delays, the trip turned out to be somewhat longer - but in the end, I left the airport a little before ten this morning. Hopped a taxi to my hostel, which is in a very cool part of town, Brooklyn is on Long Island, across the river from Manhattan, and I'm staying in East Williamsburg. For the Melbournites amongst us, this area is a bit like a less gentrified Brunswick - lots of galleries, converted lofts and creative types, spotted by low-income housing and a few industries and warehouses which are still running. Except that Williamsburg is on a much greater scale than you'd find in Melbourne. The Hostel I'm staying in is a converted loft, and they've done an amazing job. My room sleeps 12, but the space is so huge, you're not cramped in with everyone, as you get in many hostels. It's all very new, and there's a cool lounge/kitchen space, with new appliances and fittings.

Anyway, after dropping my stuff of at the hostel, I had some time to kill before I could check in. So I hopped the subway (like a block and a half away from the hostel) and did what I always do when I arrive in a new city - walked around - so a bit of a photosummary is in order.

So, after a 15 minutes ride to Union Square on Manhattan, I took a walk up the famous Park avenue - no photos of this, I'm afraid, I was still in cold-shock at the time, and was more focused on getting something hot and breakfasty (two eggs and bacon on a roll saved my morning  today :P). Made my way up to Grand Central Terminal, which is probably the most impressive train station I've ever seen - and it's not just a pretty face - there are dozens of trains which arrive and depart from here, and hundreds of people at a time coming and going.

The great thing about actually being in New York is that something spectacular and iconic is always just around the corner - case in point, I walk out of Grand Central, and run into this baby.

Yup, that's the Chrysler Tower, quite possibly the most elegant, beautiful skyscraper in the world - and in New York, it's just there, all the time, ready to be seen and admired.

Not one to quickly move on from unhealthy obsessions, I soonfound another building to fawn over - this time, one that I had missed out on during my first trip here. The UN secretariat building, as well as being pretty and architecturally significant, is also a place where a whole lot of good work goes on - which lend the whole thing a certain gravitas, I reckon.

(see the gravitas :P)

Plus, there's an amazing view down the street (42nd? I think.) from outside - there are not very many places in the world where you can have a view like the following, with such a variety of buildings in all different styles, shapes, ages, heights and sizes.

Next, I took a walk across the island from East to West, ending up on the Hudson River, where I saw the aircraft USS Intrepid (Which I only knew about because I'd seen Will Smith use it as a driving range in I Am Legend). 

Again, I feel compelled to point out that, no matter where you are in New York, there always seems to be an amazing view just around the corner - this one's taken at the West Side train yards, with the new New York Times Building at left, and the Empire State in the middle there.

Anyway, I made my way back to the subway via the East Village neighbourhood (nice, but far too many hipsters/yuppies/fashionistas) and hopped on a train back to Brooklyn.

So, that was my eventful day - got a few things planned over the next few days - Roosevelt Island, Wall St/Downtown, Central Park, the Rockerfeller Centre, Museum of Modern Art, Coney Island etc - but mostly I'm just looking to spend a bit of time doing exactly what I was up to today - wandering, exploring and being in awe of this crazy, crazy city.

'til then,

Jono

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Reboot

Hey y'all

After a hectic couple of months, a lot of schoolwork, a lot of assignments and a lot of fun, I'm officially all finished - with finals, with my studies here at Berkeley and, in fact, with my Arts degree. Which feels good. Anyway, I'm now officially in holiday mode.

So, between now and when I return (Jan 16th), I've got some travelling to do. New York, Boston and Chicago are the places on my hit list - flying out to New York tomorrow evening, and then making my way back across the breadth of the United States by train. Which I'm thoroughly looking forward to. So, itinerary.

Itinerary, December 21 – January 16


21/12: Depart San Francisco Airport, 7:45PM, Transfer at Las Vegas

22/12: Arrive New York, 7:30AM

22/12 – 31/12: Overnight, New York Loft Hostel, Brooklyn

1/1: Depart Penn Station, New York, 1PM, on train to Boston

1/1 – 4/1: Overnight, HI Hostel Boston

5/1 – 6/1: Depart Boston South Station for Chicago @ 11:55, arrive Union Station, Chicago, 9:45AM, 6/1

6/1 – 11/1: Overnight, HI Hostel Chicago

11/1 – 13/1: Depart Chicago Union Station for Los Angeles @ 3:15PM, Arrive Union Station, Los Angeles, 8:15AM, 13/1

13/1: Overnight, Super 8 Hotel, Los Angeles Airport

14/1: Depart Los Angeles Airport @ 1:50PM, return to Melbourne via Taipei, Brisbane.

16/1: Arrive Melbourne Airport @ 3:40PM

As you can see, there's a lot of time spent on the train in there (I count almost 70 hours total), but I actually really enjoyed the train trip up here from Los Angeles, and it's more scenic than flying and cheaper than hiring a car. So that's the gist of my next few weeks - Now that I've got more free time, I'll make sure to keep this thing good and updated with all of my adventures in three exciting American cities. 

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Victory

Looks like the American people have voted.

And for the right guy this time!

It was a crazy night out here - hundreds of people came out into the streets for an impromptu Obamaparty.

I'm afraid it wasn't all good news this evening - Here in California, it appears that voters have narrowly passed Proposition 8, which writes the state's 5 month old acceptance of gay marriage out of the constitution. Looks like 52-48% in that race - but young voters were strongly against the measure, so who knows - maybe they can turn it around in 2010.

'til next time.

Jono

PS: Sorry about going without contact for so long, y'all - I'll be sure to blog shorter and more frequently going forward.

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Hills of Berkeley

Hey again, everyone - long time, no post, I know, but here I am with a new post.

So, things are getting seriously underway on the academic side over here, but that doesn't mean I'm not finding the time to get out and explore my surroundings.

As the weather cools down, in fact, it's easier for me to get out and about - For a few weeks when I arrived, it was a bit too warm for comfort, but now it's cooled down beautifully - just the right conditions for getting out and exploring the Berkeley Hills.

So, Geography lesson first: The East side of the San Francisco Bay consists of a fairly narrow strip of urban and suburban development, backed by a long chain of hills. Many of the suburbs here in the East Bay climb a way back up into the hills, but as you get further back from the water its mostly state and national parks.

I've been intending to get out there for a while now - I've spent over a month now living entirely in the city, and while I love being here where the action is, I'm still a hills boy, so I do occasionally feel the compulsion to get out into a less urban landscape. So I took a couple of longish walks out into the hills last weekend, keen on finding out what there was to see back behind the campus where I spend all of my time.

The University of California actually owns a lot of land in the hills back here - the Lawrence Berkeley National Labs (a Physics research centre - think syncotrons and the like) extends right back up Strawberry Canyon, the source of the creek running through the middle of campus.

I had almost forgotten how much I enjoy getting out amongst the trees. I guess it's not something you think about when you live next door to a forest, but I forgot how great it is to get out away from the concrete, at least for a little while.

And boy, it's spectacular up there. Strawberry Canyon climbs up and up until it reaches the highest point in the immediate area, Grizzly Peak (for reference, Grizzly Peak is around 1800 feet above sea level, so a similar height to Mt  Dandenong). There are groves of redwoods, which I've decided are my favourite species of tree (is it strange that I have a favourite species of tree?) - when you're out there in the late afternoon, the light streaming in can be so spectacular.

Apparently, the hippies(or cultists?) like it up in the Redwood groves too - check out the forest circles!

The other big attraction of getting out into the hills is the view - it was hazy when I went out there, but when it's clear, I bet you could see the whole Bay.

Looking down Strawberry Canyon, over the top of Berkeley to the San Francisco Bay - SF itself is obscured by the haze.

Looking down to the Campanile and the UC Berkeley Campus (note the Eucalypt trees in the foreground - they're introduced here in California, but it turns out they thrive in this climate)

Downtown Oakland through the haze

Downtown Berkeley, and its precisely two highrise buildings.

Well, that's more or less it for the time being - hope you're enjoying the occasional blog-age, I'm certainly having a good time putting 'em together.

As usual, all my photos from the past week or so are on Flickr.

'til next time!

Jono

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

The end of the Tree Sitter

Disclaimer: This is just my own impressions of what went down these last few days, along with my own opinion, biases and inaccuracies - if you're after the full story, pay a visit to the Daily Cal - I know that a good part of my weekend was spent refreshing their page to get the latest and best news on what was happening down at the Oak Grove.

This morning I took a walk down to the Oak Grove on Piedmont Avenue, as I've done for the last 6 days. I knew, of course, that there weren't any trees their any more - but all the same it came as a shock to see nothing but piles of wood chips where, just a few days ago, were over 40 oak and redwood trees.

So, what's the story?

Well, first we've gotta look at a little bit of history - I know I've mentioned the tree sitters in the past, but lets go over the basics again.

On the 2nd of December 2006, Zachary RunningWolf(below), a local native American and sometime political aspirant climbed into a Pacific Coastal Oak tree in the Memorial Oak Grove just West of Berkeley's 80,000 seat Memorial Stadium. The University had plans to construct a Student High Performance Athletics Centre - training facilities for their college sports teams - on the site of the cluster of around 40 Oak and Redwood trees. At first, many people came and went to the ongoing protests, and a network of ropes and cables stretched across several trees in the Grove. In the meantime, a lawsuit was brought against the University by The California Oak Foundation, the City of Berkeley and the Panoramic Hill Association. These actions combined to delay the construction of the new Sports Facility, and the University grew increasingly strict on the tree-sitters - erecting one and then a second fence and topping the fences with barbed wire in an attempt to cut off the tree sitters.

Zachary RunningWolf

(Note that the guy I identified as Zachary RunningWolf in a previous blog was, in fact, some other dude named Zachary, and not the initiator of the Berkeley Tree Sit)

So things continued until just last week. The tree sitters grew fewer in number, and were confined to a single tree, but their presence was still felt (largely by the efforts of their ground crew, who were encamped across the road from the trees). The legal battles dragged on, but eventually, it became clear that the University of California was winning this fight. decisions were passed down by judges, appeals were made and the protest became the longest urban tree sit in American history (longer than all of those other urban tree sits that we're all familiar with, like... err...). The supporters were banned from supplying the tree sitters with food and water - a task the University took up themselves. Occasionally, the ground support team would stage a protest event, and the UC Police would get annoyed. Occasionally, the University would send up a cherry picker to hack off some limbs, and the protesters would get annoyed. But generally, by the time I arrived in Berkeley, there appeared to be a fairly stable status quo in place - sitters up the tree, supporters hanging out on the sidewalk and police standing watch over the whole thing.

Which helps to explain why I thought nothing more of it when I read last Thursday that a judge had given the UC the go-ahead to begin construction, and against which an appeal was  apparently pending. Imagine my surprise, then, when I arrived back in Berkeley from a field trip on Friday afternoon to see three helicopters hovering over the stadium. At first I was confused - had there been a major crime on campus? It took me a little while on the walk up the hill to realise that this could only be about the tree sitters. So I went home, gathered up my camera + equipment and headed out to the grove. By the time I arrived, most of the trees had already gone - the tree fellers would cut a chunk out of the base, then swing an earthmoving machine at it, battering the whole tree to the ground.

As the evening went on and more and more trees came down, the situation down at ground level became more and more heated.

At first, it was mostly hippies, standing around looking distraught - as you may well expect - when you've devoted such a great deal of your time to saving something, it must be difficult to see it so summarily destroyed.

The police, too were relatively chill at first - just standing outside the fence like they'd been doing for literally hundreds of days.

But at some point, things got more heated.

It's probably worth diverging from the plot at this point to note that there were several different types of protesters present on the ground, and they fell broadly into three categories. The largest group were the hippies - your stereotypical 'save the trees' type, for whom the key objection seemed to be philosophical - that the trees in question, as part of the wider ecosystem, should be preserved for the general well-being of the earth.

A second group was the native Americans - people like RunningWolf, who we encountered above. These people tended to emphasise the cultural importance of the site - the claim was made, for example, that the Oak Grove was a burial ground for the local Ohlone indian tribe.

The third group were what you might call the environmental radicals - these guys and girls had similar concerns to the hippies, but were more focused on the politics of the decision and the University, and tended more to anger than to sadness at the loss of the trees.

Of course, there was significant crossover between these groups, as well as significant room for outlier-craziness - RunningWolf, for example, is on record as claiming that cutting down the trees is a project of the Mormons and the Illuminati. This crossover of motivations and politics made the whole protest some what messy, with a litany of different messages and methods of protest.

Back on track, however - 

The enviro-radicals also made their appearance, and tension continued to mount.

The outbreak on Friday seems to have been started by percussion, of all things.

At some point, with the protesters lined up on one side of the road, and the police hanging back behind barricades on the opposite side, someone started banging on an empty plastic bottle, like the kind you would use in a water cooler. More people joined in, banging on whatever plastic or metal they could get their hands on - the anger and frustration of the protesters was manifesting itself as music and dance.

Unfortunately, dancing around on a major university thoroughfare doesn't win you any friends amongst the police.

Eventually, the assembled cops cleared everyone from one side of the road - at which point, they crossed the median and continued their dance on the opposite side. Things were getting more and more heated between the police and the protesters - traffic was backing up along Piedmont Ave (it didn't help that there was a big Dave Matthews Band concert on that night, just down the road at the Greek Theatre) and the tree-sitter supporters were getting more and more worked up as the trees continued to fall.

Eventually, a police car tried to come through down the road which was being blocked by dancing hippies. Probably not the greatest idea, in hindsight - a gentleman with a pair of bongos sat himself down there, and simply refused to move.

This proved the flashpoint for the evening - when police tried to forcibly remove the man with the bongos, sympathetic protesters intervened, and everything got quite chaotic quite quickly - I'll let the pictures do the talking here.

As you can see, once the cops try to remove the guy from in front of the police car, all hell breaks loose - protesters are yelling "LET HIM GO!", and several young guys (mostly of an enviro-radical bent, it seems) jump right into the fray, trying to wrestle police away from the action.In doing so, the gentleman in the last two pictures become the fray - the police's training and the majority's reluctance to get bashed around or arrested eventually wins out. Police escort the man into custody to the shouts of his fellow protesters.

One girl's obvious distress catches my eye - there's clearly a lot of emotion in the air on this Friday evening, and it can be enough to really upset a person.

So, I went home on Friday feeling very bummed out about the whole situation - Nearly all of the trees were now down, and the University had given the remaining sitters a 72 hour deadline to come out of the trees.

Over the course of the weekend, the University first cut and then chipped all but two trees in the grove - one redwood which is the be transplanted to another spot on campus, and the temporary home of the four protesters still up that tree.

Come Monday, then, when the deadline expired, the place had turned into even more of a media circus than it had been on Friday. All of the biggest TV channels, Newspapers and Radio Stations in the Bay Area (and a whole bunch of small ones, too) gathered around to wait for.... something to happen. They conducted a walkie-talkie interview with one of the remaining sitters in the morning, but it became clear that today would not see the end of the Berkeley Tree Sit.

In the end, nothing happened on Monday except some more UC 'pruning' of the last tree still to be cut down - more lower branches were cut off the tree sitters' Redwood, further tightening their living space, while the University stopped providing its usual daily food and water provisions.

Tuesday, then, was the day. I woke up to the sound of helicopters for the 4th morning in a row, and made my way back to the Oak Grove. What I saw when I arrived was surreal, and somehow darkly humourous. Around the base of the tree swarmed construction workers in white coveralls, looking for all the world like Iranian nuclear technicians. Except that these particular men in white were building stairs. Up a tree. Or, more accurately, building scaffolding around the protesters' Redwood, so that they could build stairs right up into the canopy.

Meanwhile, the Chief and Assistant Chief of the UC Berkeley Police department (Yes, the university does have its own police department) were swinging around in a basket hanging from a crane, trying to talk down the 4 remaining sitters.

At around this point, with the scaffolding about to reach the bottom of the tree sitters' nest, and with the two highest ranking police officers on campus swinging around on the end of a crane my camera ran out of batteries. Which was probably just as well, considering that if they hadn't, I probably would've stuck around for the rest of the day, and missed three lectures. But this next part is all second hand info. Basically, at around 1:30PM on Tuesday September 9th - 648 days after the tree sit began - the protest came to a peaceful end. The remaining 4 sitters climbed down from their perches, were escorted down the scaffolding and arrested.

Returning after classes that evening, I was just in time to witness the final act of the tree sitter saga - a lone tree feller started at the top of that last redwood, attaching each section of the tree to the end of a crane and cutting it free for the crane to lift away.

And, after less than half an hour, he reached the bottom - the last section of Redwood was lifted away - all that was left was a tree feller and stump and two fences between it and the people who worked for so long to save it.

So, what can we say about this whole thing?

Well, a few things, maybe. My first thought is that, while the University of California may have won the war, this collective of hippies, enviro-radicals and Native Americans won 647 battles - one for every day they defied the university and stayed up in those trees.

Of course, we can't forget the police, and what a bloody difficult job they have in all this - after all, they didn't start this battle, but it was down to them to fight it. And (with a few exceptions, when certain individuals got too rough in the heat of the moment), they did a great job, given the circumstances.

The whole experience also hammers home to me that radicalism and a spirit of dissent still have a home in Berkeley today - and while the University again finds itself on the wrong side of history (As it often has in the past), the tree sitters and their supporters can surely claim to have sent an important message.

And I feel like the message here is that there is value in symbolism, and in choosing where to draw the line. In the scheme of things, of course, 40 trees don't mean a great deal - there are thousands of trees being clear-felled every day, even in the United States. But this isn't about Carbon Dioxide emissions or urban heat islands or public greenery - at least not directly. To me, this protest was about priorities - how we value the trees and animals that we all live amongst and how we value burly 20 year olds running into each other in front of 80,000 people. The University of California has shown its hand here, and revealed what it values within its campus. But more importantly, I feel, some people have had the guts to question this. Whatever their flaws (mixed messages, lots of crazies amongst them, unruly appearance, tendency to throw human waste), these people have had the foresight to not simply allow these things to be slowly eroded, but instead to draw a line, to say 'this far but no further', and to have the guts to get outraged over something most of us would simply have let pass.

So here's to all the tree-sitters out there.

PS. Apologies for the long post - there were lots of things bouncing in my head that I needed to get out. If you're interested in seeing more from the last few days of protests, check out set 1 or set 2, or if you're really feeling adventurous, flick through the entire, unabridged collection of 306 shots taken between Friday and Tuesday.